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The one where I realized Warsaw has it all 🇵🇱

My karma thankfully agreed that I experienced enough cold and rain in Sweden for the time being. Poland welcomed me with beautiful, warm weather.  I had previously visited Krakow and a few other Polish towns right across the Czech border, but this was my first time in Warsaw.

Surrounded by a language that resembles my own native language, I was in my element from the moment I left the airplane!

The city was very much alive and filled with tourists and travelers as much as locals, yet it felt peaceful for no one was in rush the way people are in a constant hurry in my current home in the U.S.

After checking in at my hostel, I started walking around to figure out my surroundings (and find the closest coffee place for emergencies). Unprepared as usual, I walked left and right as I wished, following paths that looked interesting and stopping in front of buildings that caught my eyes.

When entering the old town, one cannot miss the Royal Castle, proudly dominating the Krakowskie Przedmieście.

The Royal Castle

I walked past it straight to the very colorful and adorable Old Town Market Place with the Mermaid of Warsaw dominating the very middle of it since 2000. There are several legends about the mermaid:

The tour guides say the mermaid stopped on a riverbank near the Old Town.

The Mermaid of Warsaw (Syrenka Warszawska)

Fishermen noticed something was releasing their fish and they wanted to trap the animal, but fell in love when they heard the mermaid sing. A rich merchant trapped the mermaid, but the fishermen rescued her. Since then, the mermaid with a sword and a shield has been ready to help protect the city and its residents.

Although Warsaw certainly does not feel like a big city, let alone the capital, I felt a longing for parks, greenery and some nature.

The Chopin Statue

Walking away from the city center, I didn’t have to hike far to find the Royal Bath Park. On the way, I passed the Chopin Statue, where one can enjoy nature, sit and relax, but also listen to some of Chopin’s compositions.

The weather was amazing, a slight breeze was balancing out the fall sun rays, creating the most perfect temperature. With the leaves changing during this season, the park was full of colors. I got so taken away I nearly forgot I am still only steps away from the center of Warsaw.

There you have it—the city capitol with its walls and buzz and peopliness, and just a few steps away also the park with green trees and the rustling of leaves in their crowns and tranquility.

Warsaw has it all.

The one where I toured Visby on my own 🇸🇪

I grew up in a small town of approximately 10,000 people before moving out at 18. Ever since I lived mostly in cities.

Right the moment I got off the ferry, Visby reminded me of the feeling of home I have not felt in the cities I have lived in since. I felt a wave of sentiment even more once I started strolling through the streets.

Cobblestones. Little gardens. Trees and parks. The tranquility of a small town, disturbed only occasionally by cars going by through streets so narrow the vehicles are crawling more than actually driving.

I decided to follow a map that can be picked up at the Tourism Office in the middle of the city, which highlights all the World Heritage sites and puts them in an convenient numerical order, creating a nice cruise around the town, ensuring travelers see everything they should.

I started in the southwest part of the town, which led me outside of the City Wall.

I eventually crossed back inside the wall, getting to see the precise line of the old and the new—where the medieval wall meets the today’s town.

I saw old churches and ruins, sheep statues and adorable little stores, but what caught my eyes were hopscotches everywhere! As a child, I did not have the appreciation for old castles and ruins I have now, unless there was a kids program that allowed me to fight bandits to win treasure box filled with candy or a similar exciting adventure. I know I would have appreciated hopscotches along the way as a child. May that give adults more time to explore.

St. Katarina ruin

I finished my day at the Gotland Museum, learning about the picture stones that cannot be found anywhere else in the world, the Viking history, the Danish invasion, the reconnection of Visby back to Sweden and what life was like throughout all that time.

Elene called Visby “the Manhattan of the medieval times.”

I think I agree.

The one where I arrived to Visby on the island of Gotland 🇸🇪

Coming from summer-hot Barcelona, I felt like the plane I boarded traveled through time and space, only to spit me out in grey, cold and rainy Sweden.

Nearly ashamed to admit, before planning this trip I had no clue where the island of Gotland was (or even that it actually was, for that matter), let alone Visby, but the more intrigued I was to visit.

 

Taking a bus from the airport to downtown Stockholm, from Stockholm to Nynäshamn and then taking a ferry from Nynäshamn to Visby, I got off the boat many hours later, right into the most fairytale-like fall season.

Just steps away from the pier is Visby, a Hanseatic town occupied by over 24,000 residents — with approximately 3,000 living within the enclosure of the Visby City Wall, a medieval wall protecting the heart of the town ever since the 12th century. 

I planned to right away meet with Elene, Visby’s World Heritage Site Manager, so I ran up a little hill waiting for me right at the foot of the town to check into my hostel and then ran right back down to Elene’s office, located inside the town’s tourism office right in the middle of the town.

Elene told me everything about the history of Visby, answered my endless questions and got me excited to start exploring the town.

With Elene at Almedalen Park

“Visby developed as a trading post and town,” Elene said. “It was initiated by the Vikings, originally a Viking settlement. During the 12th and 13th century, Visby grew as international metropolis because there were a lot of merchants from Germany and Russia and other countries that were part of the Hansa Federation, which connected many, especially German towns. iIt was almost like a medieval EU. There are all these old merchant houses from the 12th hundreds right outside this office, which were built as warehouses for trade.”

I was also interested to know why and when the wall was built.

“The wall is actually in two parts: one that is defending the town from the sea and then there is the land part of the wall, which was built to protect the town from the rural hinterland. There were certain privileges for merchants living in town and then you had the rural area of the rest of Gotland. It was not to protect the town from the sea, but more to defend Visby from the rest of Gotland. It was a rural and urban divide.”

As Elene and I talked about the town, we were joined by Monica, Visby’s tourism specialist and strategist. 

As part of the OWHC, towns have to prove the ongoing Outstanding Universal Value and come with a plan to maintain the world heritage for future generations.

Monica and Elene work together on sustainability and integrity of tourism and heritage. Their plan involves cleaning water and water supply to address the increased amount of incoming and outgoing cruise ships, or for example electrification of transportation. 

With Elene and Monica in Almedalen Park

Besides tourism, I was also interested in the immigration status of residents of the island.

Many residents living on the island nowadays are of German descendant with German last names. Gotland was temporarily taken over by the Danes in 1361 and was reunited with Sweden in 1645. The time of separation had left Danish marks in the structure of the town, although Elene admitted the Danes destroyed many churches and settlements as they were leaving.

“Very important for the city are the students at Uppsala University, which is the biggest university in Sweden, and there is a lot of international students coming here,” Monica said. “They only stay for a while because it is difficult to find a place to live here. If you get that motion of people coming and going, you get this international flair which is very important to Gotland. Otherwise it would be very easy to fall into this bubble.”

I took a walk around the town’s center with the ladies who told me about all the places I should not miss during my stay. The unknown Visby town has very quickly become unforgettable.

The one where I was still in Barcelona in the middle of protests 🇪🇸

When I picked heritage and cultural identity as the topic for my travel blog, I only had a rough idea where this could take me.

Heritage is mostly self-explanatory, but I wanted to tie it not only to the world heritage sites, but also to explore people’s personal heritage. That’s why I threw in the cultural identity. Cultural identity is a feeling of belonging to a certain group and can be related to nationality, religion, ethnicity, social class, age group or social group that has its own distinct culture. 

Barcelona fully and unexpectedly aligned with my topic. 

From the moment I arrived to the city, I saw people all over the place wearing Catalan flags as capes and bandanas. I did not give it a second thought (living in the patriotic U.S. numbed me to the sight of flags) until the moment I was returning back to my hostel at the end of the day and found hundreds, if not thousands of them, standing around various fires put up in the middle of intersections, shouting Spanish phrases from one end to the other.

I am not here to talk politics or judge who is right and who is wrong—I am not Spanish and feel no right to do that. But I am intrigued by the fact there are Spaniards whose cultural identity does not align with the rest of the country. Catalonia was an independent country back in the day, with its own language and government, until it was forcibly attached to Spain (although given a degree of autonomy—after years of fights in an attempt to destroy Catalan autonomy).

While Catalonia is fighting for its own heritage and identity, my thoughts wander to the damages all around the city. Just from what I saw, there has been trash left behind after the protests, street fires, burned communal waste containers, bike racks torn out of the ground and cars set on fire—some of them leaving permanent marks on the city.

For a place as historical and important as Barcelona, it is confusing to see residents damaging the very city they are fighting to gain autonomy for, essentially destroying the ground underneath their own feet. This is where the people’s heritage clashes with the city’s heritage, for one is hurt and the other is about to be, but sometimes the only way forward is by letting frustration lead the way through the streets.

While Barcelona is not part of the Organization of World Heritage Cities right now, it doesn’t mean it could not become part of it in the future, for it has all necessary ingredients. 

The one where I landed in Barcelona 🇪🇸

As I mentioned earlier, my immense, endless and obsessive love for Spain did not allow me to pass on the greatest airfare deal ever seen —this time to Barcelona,  a city I have not been fortunate to visit yet.

Yet, to my initial surprise, Barcelona is not part of the Organization of World Heritage Cities (the same goes for New York, Athens or for example Madrid, just to name a few). The city checks all the boxes — Barcelona has a UNESCO site within the city limits (more than one actually) and with no problem it could prove that there is an outstanding universal value to it.

But the thing is, cities such as Barcelona are so prominent they don’t need to go through being nominated and approved,  a process which Melissa from Global Philadelphia compared to a dissertation. 

That fact, of course, makes Barcelona no less beautiful or worth visiting. Heritage-wise, Barcelona is a truly rich city, full of history, UNESCO sites and cultural significance.

La Sagrada Familia

Without having to think about it, my first steps led me straight to La Sagrada Familia. As impressive as all the pictures of it I have seen, the basilica towers over the city in all its magnificence. There is no such thing as simply looking at the structure and leaving. No! I couldn’t help it, I stared—at the candy-like tops, ginger-bread looking walls. I couldn’t help but think the basilica looks like a few different architects started to bring their own ideas to life and randomly met in the middle. Yet it somehow works.

From there, I decided to cross the city and climb up to the Park Güell, another of the UNESCO sites. While I knew about Barcelona’s octagon-like city structure, its full magnitude hit me only once I walked through the city, every time I had to obey it and take a detour crossing from one octagon to another. Only then I started to wonder how an old historical city has such an organized structure one more likely expects from modern cities like New York that was built that way it is built on purpose.

Barcelona did not always look like it does today. The Eixample, characterized by long straight streets, a strict grid pattern crossed by wide avenues and octagon-like blocks, was introduced by Ildefons Cerdà in early 19th century. After studying other cities, Cerdà proposed to build the Eixample in order to facilitate transport and navigation. According to Cerdà, the octagon-like detail was to provide greater air circulation in the streets, greater possibility for trams to turn corners and higher visibility around corners. The blocks are oriented in a NW-SE direction to ensure each household receives enough natural light each day. 

Park GĂĽell

And so I made my way to the park, right before sunset, enjoying the view of the city, the view of an ocean of palm trees in the big city complimented by the endless blue in the background. I climbed above the park, off the path, hoping not to break any one of my bones, reminding myself I don’t have travel insurance. 

In the streets of Barcelona

I did not have time to discover all parts of the park as the sun went down rather in a rush, leaving my surroundings nearly pitch black, only unwillingly allowing the night light of the city to disturb the darkness. 

I climbed back down the hill, back into the swarm of octagons, and without using GPS I was taking turns left and right as I wished, stopping to sit in parks, take pictures and just inhale the gratitude that I can do all of this.

A perfect day in Barcelona.

 

Bamberg – a secret diamond in the heart of Bavaria

For our first stop during our travels we visited Bamberg which is a small town in Bavaria. A lot of cultural and architectural sights are found there including world heritage. Especially the old town with its medieval and baroque buildings are worth a visit. You can stroll through the streets and around every corner are new, lovely and spectacular things to discover. When you walk through Bambergs old town you should look out for the little streets and alleys. A lot of wonderful small architectural details are to be found.

The world heritage center in Bamberg is a must-see. In its exhibition Bambergs’ material and immaterial cultural heritage are explained. Futhermore the exhibition is designed very interactive and with easy to understand information for young and old. Also two young women who take a voluntary year gave us a guided tour around Bamberg and showed us its most beautiful spots and sights. We visited the cathedrale which was founded by emperor Henry II. and his wife and empress Kunigunde. We not only saw the material world heritage but we also learned that Bamberg has immaterial culture such as smoked beer or liquorice which was a very important commodity for many centuries. Altogether Bamberg has 1340 monuments which is a variety of churchs, palaces or other architectural sights. Besides the cathedral we also visited the Rosegarden or the Obere Pfarre. The Obere Pfarre is a very beautiful catholic church which is firstly namend in an document in 1140.

During our visit we not only saw the old town and the sights but we also went to a lot of Museums Bamberg has to offer. Our Highlight was the Gärtner- und Heckermuseum which is a very small museum but its exhibition is made with love and care and is resident in an old house form the 18. Century which belonged to gardener family. Today it tells the story of living and working as such a family. In the backyard is a very gorgeous garden filled with flowers, herbs and vegetables. We can recommend a visit there.

All in all Bamberg is a very beautiful town with a great variety of cultural sights and immaterial culture and is definitely worth a visit.

Quebec City: Part 1

What makes Quebec City Quebec City? It is the combination of the castle, the maple leaves, hundreds of years of European history over 450 square kilometers of land. But for someone who was born and raised here, it’s the food, the outskirt of town, the épiceries around street corner, the experience of interacting with tourists from all over the world (well, aka, us).

I am never a fan of sugary things: the guilt and the thought of having to do a 10-minute workout to burn all the calories off keep me away from cakes, pies, and candies. However, when I came to Quebec City, everything changed. I can’t move my feet when it comes to pastry shops. One bite down the croissant, I immediately have the biggest smile on my face. The warmth of indoors and the long-forgotten joy from sugar make me want to just stay in this moment forever.

For some Quebecois, this moment of sweetness is part of their daily routine — midday break, head off to coffee shop right next door, get a block of sugar (yes, something like 200 calories of nothing but pure sugar), the spend the rest of the afternoon at a park with a copy of daily news.

I love taking picture of couples here. (No wonder “Guardian: The Lonely and Great God” was shot here). The romantic atmosphere overtakes me as I stroll along the street – just look at people going in and out of the Christmas shops. This is the city where Christmas starts in October and do not end until late January. It is a sugary winter wonderland.

Is sugar something that is deep rooted in QC? Well, we have the next few days to find out.

 

 

(to be continued… )

 

Warsaw destruction and The National Museum

On our three days in Warsaw, we visited the Museum of Warsaw and the Heritage Interpretation Centre. We learned that the city of Warsaw was destroyed in 1944,  85% of the city was bombed by the Germans in retaliation of the 1944 Warsaw uprising.

Efforts from several architects and the state after the war created a plan of reconstruction. From 1945-51 the old town place was reconstructed, however not exactly as it was before, creating a more spacious city centre. Our lovely guide Marta took us around and showed us the history of the reconstruction and the UNESCO recognition.

Later we went to the Warsaw Museum at the old town place where we learned more about Warsaw’s history and population. We walked around through the old town and enjoyed the nice weather.

The next day we went to see the National Museum of Warsaw were our lovely guide Mr. Glowacki, who works at the curatorial department told us about the history of the museum at the time of the war. We found that the museum was almost completely looted by the Nazis, with paintings such as a Young Man by Rafael never returning. We also saw efforts from the Ministry of Culture of Poland to track paintings lost during that time which we were able to see at the museum.

Lastly, a nice story about a important symbolic painting for the Polish people. A massive war painting by recognised artist Jan Matejko. The great scale art work was dismounted by the staff and hidden, first in Warsaw and later buried in Lublin. The staff wanted to avoid the Nazis burning the painting as the topic of the work was the defeat of the German army to the Polish army in the 1500.

We found Warsaw lovely, filled with life and great food! We will be back once more! This is the end of our journey so thank you readers and to the next adventure!

 

 

Hidden Gem: Chestnut Hill Friends Meeting and Their Turrell Skyspace

For someone who has lived in Pennsylvania, United States for two years, the only Philly-authentic thing I’ve familiarized myself with is their Philly Cheesesteaks and Wawa, our beloved local minimart chain. The one thing I have been curious about ever since I saw Penn’s mascot, the Quaker, is exactly that: Philly’s Quaker community.

Quakerism emerged from the English Civil War in the mid 1600s as a sect of Christianity and, ever since the 1800s, Philadelphia has become a home for many Quakers and their Religious Society of Friends. For Quakers, their core belief is that a piece of God is present in every person and that that “Inner Light” can speak to them directly.

One historic meeting place, the Chestnut Hill Friends Meeting, is located twenty minutes outside of Philadelphia. Once a week on Sunday mornings, the members of this community come together for one hour of silent worship in a meditative and beautifully designed space.

Although it might not look like your typical cathedral, the design of the space is impeccably well thought out. The interior is a serene palette of white walls, wooden floors and furniture, and aquamarine accents.

The generous sprinkle of windows that line the room allow natural light to flood the space and not only that, it welcomes the chirp of the cicadas and the children’s laughter to echo the room.

A gentle breeze occasionally enters, and the space is decidedly the perfect meditation haven. The coolest part yet is the “skyspace” located on the ceiling:

After asking what inspired the beautiful light piece, I was told that it was in fact done by the renowned contemporary artist, James Turrell (whose work you might recognize from Drake’s Hotline Bling music video, but trust me, he’s much more important than just that). The small square of light is projected unto a false ceiling, which opens up to the sky.

The Skyspace actually welcomes visitors, and you can sign up for a tour of it online. It’s on my bucket list to go back there at least once to really enjoy it in its full glory.

I could go on for a long time about its architecture. Did I mention its beautiful local Philadelphia field stone-covered facade?

On that note, I should probably also mention that I’m an Architecture student, hence the geeky perception towards the building’s smallest details. Having been a student in Philadelphia for over two years now, though, I’ve always been curious about the state’s Quaker roots. I’m really glad that I’ve finally cracked that mystery and can now appreciate a new way to pursue religion.

Can I offer you a friendly tip? If you’re curious about something, bring a friend along and explore – you’ll never know unless you try it.

Special thanks to Sarah for being the absolute best guide, and Vian and Nelson!

– Gaby

 

The address to Chestnut Hill Friends Meeting is: 20 E Mermaid Ln, Philadelphia, PA 19118. They hold worships every Sunday at 10:30 – 11:30AM.