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Brussels, Belgium

Day 1 – 01/09/24

Our first day in Brussels started with an early arrival by plane after our visit to Rome, and a relaxed evening stroll through the city after checking into our hostel. We were both pleasantly surprised to see a different city vibe compared to our previous stop with: a very walkable and transit-friendly city, the tight cobble stoned streets integrated with bike lanes, the brick façade architecture (merging historic designs with modern lifestyles), and the calm energy of both the people and urban landscape of the capital of Belgium. We visited the Grand Place, a recognized World Heritage Site by UNESCO, and were immediately amazed by the variety of architectural styles and exceptionally designed and conserved buildings. A few notable favorites we saw of the UNESCO site: Brussels Town Hall with a 15th  century Gothic bell tower, gorgeous 17th century baroque-styled houses with pure gold decorative accents, and the King’s House built in a Gothic Revival style. We also noted the crow-stepped gable roof design, an architectural feature common in northern Europe throughout the city, and the square itself.

    

Day 2 – 02/09/24

Our second day in Brussels we dove into exploring the city, traversing the main historic centre by foot, and visiting both modern and historic structures. On our way we noticed a significant amount of façadism – a conservation intervention where only the façade of a building is preserved, and a new structure and/or interior is constructed. We stopped by La Bellone, an example of facadism, where the 17th-century baroque style house was converted into an event space cleverly preserving the facade and integrating modern architecture. Throughout the day we visited many cathedrals and churches, in varying degrees of structural condition. We enjoyed spotting the structural interventions including; metal tie-rods supporting arches, structural health monitoring systems, through-wall ties, and masonry repointing, all in place to ensure these beautiful structures remain standing for generations to come!

Day 3 – 03/09/24

Our last day in Brussels was wrapped up perfectly with a chance to speak with Paula Cordeiro, an architect and the site manager of UNESCO World Heritage site: the Grand-Place, and Florence Papazoglakis, a fellow architectural conservator of the Grand Place and for heritage buildings in the city. We had a wonderful time discussing and learning more about heritage conservation and site management. We are grateful to have been able to speak with them and be further inspired to grow in our careers!

Paula and Florence kindly guided us through Grand Place district, the surrounding buffer zone of the UNESCO site, and a personal tour of the Brussels Town Hall, which included climbing up the bell tower. The view from the top of the tower was breathtaking! Paula and Florence, both heavily involved in the site management of the Grand Place, had mentioned the districts struggle with vacancy issues in the city centre, specifically within the upper floors of townhouses. Many building owners solely use the main ground floor, as maintaining the lower floor for businesses is sufficient. As it is the main city centre, it seems a shame that residents do not get the opportunity to live in their city’s historical centre.

Next Stop: Brugge, Belgium

Brussels was an amazing experience and a perfect way to introduce ourselves to Belgium! We are even more excited to go explore Brugge!!!

You can read our more detailed travels and discussion in our Instagram posts here!

https://www.instagram.com/the_late_heritage_travels?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=ZDNlZDc0MzIxNw==

luxembourg – a city of grenzgänger

we were quite impressed by the topography of the city when we arrived. the ‘oberstadt’ lies on a cliff surrounded by a green canyon on a slope of the river alzette.  we immediately noticed that there is no real infrastructure for cyclists, which might be because of the city’s hilly region, so no one cycles.

we stayed three days in a nice airbnb in a quiet part of the city with a good view over it. 70% percent of the population is not luxembourgish and on the weekend the city shrinks by half. that is because people come to work to in the small country. in the 20s luxembourg became neutral and decided on some important financial laws, which made it a safe haven for the finance sector.

we were impressed by how great daily life and world heritage harmonize. the ‘oberstadt’, which is the old town implemented the daily life as well as the tourist attractions. but that might also be, because of the mixed population, you can’t really tell who is a tourist and who is working here.

what we especially loved was the pfaffenthal lift, which is an infrastructure and tourist attraction at the same time. it makes over 70 meters from the alzette to the oberstadt and has a platform you can view the whole pfaffenthal. also its big enough for a few bikes and further for free, like all public transport in luxembourg. the tram in luxembourg is amazing, they finished building it two years ago. it connects the kirchberg with the south.

we were invited by robert philipphart, UNESCO site manager at ministère de la culture grand-duché de luxembourg. we talked about luxembourg, its culture, inhabitants, infrastructure, heritage, and his work in the ministry and the city. we learned a lot about political work and how important empathy is: ‘don’t view the ashes, keep the flames alive’. we also learned that all luxembourgians speak at least three languages. they learn french, luxembourgish and german in school and because of internationalism, most of them also speak english. so you never know what languages you encounter, it’s always a surprise.

also, we visited the UNESCO visitor center. we got a good overview of what heritage is and the history behind the organization. the exhibition of europe was very good, it was not just about how great it is, but differentiated.

on our last day we met katherina krier, she showed us around with the perspective of a local.

Berlin is So Big, I was Overwhelmed!

With a hasty and comfortable train returning to Berlin, I enjoyed the remainder of my Wednesday afternoon with leisure. My hostel was located in the southernmost area of the city (the catch for booking the cheapest hostel room), but luckily it was placed adjacent to Osdorfer Straße Station, giving me efficient metro access to and from the city within 30 minutes. I enjoyed myself in Berlin, but it was quite the adjustment coming from Brussels. My first impression was of course noting the expansive suburbs in which I found my temporary stay. The impression was calm, organized, and uncanny-American. I realized quickly (having known the feeling my whole life) that I was back in a very cartesian realm, one in which a foot-peddlar like me would have some diffculty. Fortunately aside from the area’s lack of laundrymats, absence of grocery stores, and slow late-night transit during the weekdays, my first impression of Berlin was somewhat false. In the city center I found much of what I needed with reliable transportation and at medicore (but acceptable) distance to one-another.


Bottom line, Berlin is a big city. It felt to me very idealistically American with its car-centric city-planning, its industrial consumerism (liquidation stores, fast food, etc.), and its respect to the suburban life. In a way, it seemed like the common lifestyle that the U.S. tries to achieve, with the added bonus of reliable suburban transit and affordable (or even free) public recreation. Conversely, the construction of Berlin’s suburbs feels much more authentic: houses are detailed with better hardware and more durable finishes. They also each have a quirky, stylistic touch of German vernacular; not the copy-paste, thirty-year-lifespan shacks that have gained popularity with contractors in the U.S.


During my frequent trips to the city center, I absolutely had to visit one of my favorite pieces of architecture for the first time: David Libeskind’s Jewish Museum. One of the first buildings I thoroughly studied in university, this museum was constructed using countless techniques to give the occupants feelings of hopelessness and false-optimism as a memorial to the Holocaust. I took my time with this one, rejecting the audio-tour to experience the building and its content in the intended silence. In the same day I traveled to the Berlin wall. An earlier recommendation was to explore the pocket-neighborhoods along this memorial, so I attempted to view as many as possible. Of course as I imagined, it was quite a long distance to walk, but each new block offered a unique urban environment and used the wall in a slightly different manner. I was happy to see such a complex memorial footprint being so naturally integrated into the modern city.


Night life in Berlin was the liveliest I had ever witnessed. The most cosmopolitan scene I found during my stay was in the bar and club districts, and it lasted for the entirety of an owl’s waking day. These clubs were found in something I’ll call a Ber-limbo, a ring layer between the city center and the suburban outskirt that held the industrial, manufacturing, and otherwise unnattractive city-zoning: the perfect hub for night-life.


Although my hostel was empty aside for one new companion, I was able to quickly make friends who were traveling as well. With them I learned that night-life in Berlin is quite exclusive and can cater to quite a specific clientele; regardless, I enjoyed myself, and it was refreshing to be surrounded by so many lively, fun-having, young-adults.


If I were to return to Berlin, I would certainly prefer to bring a friend. For someone who is moderately social, I think it would be wise to travel in familiar company in such a vast urban setting. Vast is no exaggeration, as I still find myself getting lost in a simple map of the city. However in the time I alotted myself, I believe I gained a reasonable familiarity with Berlin, one from which I can employ similar city-planning techniques in my career’s far future.

nancy – a french city in lorraine

we arrived in nancy quite early, the streets directly lead us to the ‘place stanislav’. which is supposed to be the most beautiful square in europe. we found it quite impressive with all the marble and gold plating. the last duke of lorraine, stanislaw leszczynski, built the square to link the old town of nancy to the new.

since we needed to head on, we only stayed one day in nancy. but we explored the city by bike and found a lot of nice places. the cycling infrastructure was not very good, but we found our way. we liked the ‘parc de la pépinière’, it is the park next to the main square.

we didn’t get to know the daily business, but we enjoyed daily life in a bar outside the touristic center. the city seems to be bigger than it is, it strives for more of what it is. but we felt quite lost because it didn’t feel very vivid. for the population, the places of happening are too far apart. the nice thing about it is, that it’s very quiet.

like every major city in france, nancy has also a very large cathedral.

A Patchwork Quilt in Bruxelles

After the cacophony of consecutive transit layovers from a train to New York, to a plane to Oslo, to another plane to Berlin, I finally emerged out of the chaos of my final train with a red-eyed haze in Brussels. Arriving promptly in the early morning, I quickly shook off my fatigue with a sandwich and a coffee. I started at the north train station, and I spent the next few hours meandering south on foot. The foot traffic for me was comfortable, not being interfered much by other traffic flows. Many roads had been closed for pedestrian exclusivity, and the vehicular traffic that did exist was clearly delineated in appropriate lanes (car, bike, walk).

I found my way to my hostel in the afternoon to be surprised by the pleasant encounter of some new friends. Brussels was very quickly beginning to open up to me as a city where I could reside. Taking more trips around during that first day, the city felt less flashy than I had imagined. There was an atmosphere more in tune with what I was familiar in Philadelphia. The city was a patchwork quilt of neighborhoods, but still very closely tied to each other artisically, organizationally, and culturally.


Over the next few days, I took every opportunity to venture outside of the city center. Locally I was able to receive recommendations and even occasional tours from the locals whom I acquainted myself. Brussels felt very small-town-esque. It was comfortable for wayfinding, and despite having out of the city center, I kept finding myself passing places I had been. That is not to say navigation was always so intuituve. At this point I was familiarizing myself with the metro system: although it was speedy and efficient, it was terribly confusing. Lines cross at odd angles, intersections with roads, pedestrian paths through metro rails, and a bilingual split between French and Dutch that constantly tampered with the naming of locations and stations. Nonetheless, I could get to where I needed to be in a timely fashion.


When I found myself in the periphery, there was always a free public event of some sort. In the Parc du Cinquantenaire I stumbled across a Latin color festival, and in Leuven I experienced a suburban street festival combined with a flea market. There was an apparent recognition for the value of providing lovely, free events to the citizens that is still very foreign to me. These events seemed to be so numerous and available that many people chose not to even attend. Outside the events I would find people relaxing and playing in completely unrelated contexts.


I visited some lower-class neighborhoods as well to analyze how the city responds to public safety needs. The cleanliness level (of things like litter) were kept constant throughout my walks, despite the class of the area. The lower class areas still had decent tree coverage, adequate transit access, and open spaces where a citizen’s surroundings are kept visible (as opposed to tight spaces where aggressors may hide). I felt safe in most of my walks, although I was accompanied by new friends for some.

As for the historicism imbedded in the city, I was absolutely enamored by the diverse layering effect of Flemish tradional with French tradional all juxtaposed to modern high-rise. One of the first things to note about Brussels was its cosmopolitan energy, and the scattered but interwoven styles of its buildings absolutely reflected this worldy union. There were of course some sad scenes of historic decays as a more historic neighborhood was readapted for white-collar or business use, but I appreciated the streetview moments where the two could coexist.


As I told one of my new friends as I left, Brussels does not seem like a quick-vacation city, but rather a city with which I would fall in love after a long stay. The character felt welcoming and authentic, and something has captured my attention. I do not believe that my time with Brussels has ended, and I await the day when I may return.