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Regensburg

Regensburg! The last stop on our journey – or perhaps the first?

Back in August, we visited Monika from the World Heritage Center – when the sun was still shining bright! Traveling by train from Bamberg is quite a journey, and we especially felt it on the way back (warm regards to Deutsche Bahn).

On our walk from the train station to the World Heritage Center, we passed a large “fly agaric” mushroom (Milchschwammerl), whose original function as a milk-selling spot amazed us — we had seen exactly the same kind of shop in East Westphalia! It turns out there were around 50 of these across Germany. Today, the one in Regensburg serves as a kiosk, while in East Westphalia, it would typically be a small snack stand.

Passing by the cathedral, we finally arrived at the World Heritage Center on the banks of the Danube. After visiting the historic roof structure with Monika – once used for storing salt – the three of us set out for a tour of the city. We first crossed the Stone Bridge to the opposite bank of the Danube. From there, we made a detour past the Cinema Paradiso, a popular open-air cinema in Regensburg and potential swimming spots in the Danube, which we planned to try out later.

Back on the other side of the Danube, we visited the sculpture of the “Golden Waller,” which, after the incident at Lake Brombach in the summer of ’25, had become a pilgrimage site for grieving catfish enthusiasts.

After visiting the cathedral and enjoying lunch, we finally made our way to Monika’s office at the town hall.

Time and again, we came across the red Regensburg coat of arms with its two keys. Monika explained that the keys symbolize the city’s historical connection to Saint Peter, its patron saint, who is traditionally depicted holding the keys to Heaven.

At this point, our paths parted: Monika returned to the World Heritage Center, while we continued our tour with a visit to Neupfarrplatz. There, we explored the underground remains of the Roman legionary camp Castra Regina and learned about the medieval Jewish quarter.

Once we returned to the World Heritage Center, we treated ourselves to some sausages from the Historische Wurstkuchl before heading to the Danube to cool off.

ChatGPT:

Regensburg greeted us as a lively, welcoming city — loved by locals and students alike. We were especially happy to be there in summer, when you can even take a swim in the Danube. The old town has a special charm, especially because it’s not just a backdrop, but a place where people really live, meet, and enjoy life.

On our road trip, our route eventually took us back along the Danube – a constant companion throughout our journey – to Regensburg. This time, we were headed to visit the Walhalla.

 
 

Vienna

After arriving in Vienna and settling into our apartment, we still had time for a short walk between Ottakring and Schönbrunn.

The following day, around midday, we had arranged to meet Lara from the Municipal Directorate (Magistratsdirektion der Stadt Wien). On our way there, we took the chance to stroll through Vienna’s historic center and visit the Belvedere Palace. Lara greeted us with great warmth — before we even had time to make sure we were in the right part of the building, a door opened and we were kindly invited in.

She gave us an insightful presentation about Vienna and its World Heritage sites: the historic city center, which is managed by the municipality, and Schönbrunn Palace with its park, which fall under state administration. Unfortunately, the historic center has been on UNESCO’s List of World Heritage in Danger since 2017, as new construction projects – such as a planned high-rise at Heumarkt and various attic conversions – threaten its historic character. Nevertheless, efforts are being made to develop solutions that will preserve the site’s status in close cooperation with UNESCO. 

Have you ever heard of a Grätzl? Lara told us more about this uniquely Viennese concept and what makes it so special: In Vienna, a Grätzl refers to one of the city’s distinctive small neighborhoods, each with its own unique charm and strong sense of local community.

Each Grätzl is so distinctive that you can even take a personality quiz to discover which one suits you best!

Before we said our goodbyes, we asked for a recommendation for a good Wiener Schnitzel – which we eventually enjoyed at Café Eiles. A great tip for anyone who’d rather skip the long lines in front of trendy cafés! Alongside good food and a cozy atmosphere, it becomes clear – at the latest here – that Vienna does not live up to its reputation as an unfriendly city!

Even though it is not part of the UNESCO World Heritage, we really wanted to visit the urban development area of Seestadt. It is located outside of Vienna, far from the tourist crowds, and most likely only people interested in architecture and urban planning find their way here.

At the end of subway line U2, housing for around 25,000 people is being built here in several construction phases. Like slices of a cake, the neighborhoods are gradually being developed around an artificial lake (which, by the way, is full of fish). The idea is to learn from each completed section of Seestadt and apply those insights to the next. From the first neighborhood, for example, one of the key takeaways was, that the city needs even more green spaces.

 

We ended the evening with a leisurely walk around Schönbrunn Palace, just a short distance from our apartment.

Next Stop: Regensburg.

Budapest

Budapest’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites – the Castle District with Buda Castle, the banks of the Danube, and Andrássy út – bring together an impressive range of architectural styles, from medieval fortifications and Baroque splendor to elegant Neo-Renaissance design.

Our exploration began with a climb up Castle Hill. From the top, we were rewarded with a wide view over the city and a tangible sense of its history. Numerous construction sites stood out, suggesting both the reconstruction of historic buildings and modern reinterpretations. Building new structures in the style and appearance of older ones may strike some – particularly heritage conservators –  as unusual, yet it also results in a harmonious and visually appealing overall composition

The path then led us down to the Danube. In the warm evening light, the Parliament building shone as a perfect photo motif. Our walk through Buda eventually took us past the Fisherman’s Bastion and back to our accommodation.

The next day, we crossed the Danube to explore Pest. Along Andrássy út, with its Neo-Renaissance façades and grand layout, one can trace the principles of modern urban planning from the 19th century. Beneath it runs the Millennium Underground – one of the oldest metro lines in Europe and itself a UNESCO World Heritage site. Of course, when visiting Budapest, you can’t go without having a portion of goulash and langos!

In Szent István Park, the influence of the Bauhaus style becomes visible. The park was created to bring more green space to the densely built-up city.

A little further from the center, in the Wekerle district, lies Kós Károly Square. Its design follows the ideas of the Arts and Crafts movement, creating a cohesive and almost village-like atmosphere.

Altogether, the city presents a rich mosaic of architectural eras, blending different styles into a unique urban character.

Side quest

On our way to Vienna, we took the opportunity to make a stop at Neusiedlersee – coincidentally also a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001.

The lake is the westernmost steppe lake in Europe and stretches across the border between Austria and Hungary. It is characterized by its shallow depth – averaging only about 1.5 meters – its wide reed belts, and its rich variety of wildlife. The Fertö/ Neusiedlersee Cultural Landscape represents thousands of years of interaction between humans and nature in this unique region.

We noticed that the water appeared somewhat murky, which is due to the lake’s slightly saline content – up to 2 g/L salt. In comparison, freshwater typically contains less than 1 g/L salt. After a pleasant walk along the lakeshore, we continued our journey.

Next stop: Vienna.

Banská Štiavnica

Banská Štiavnica is located in the country side of central Slovakia. If you exit the highway, you follow a winding, serpentine road through a hilly landscape, on the other side of which lies the old mining town. Banská Štiavnica is the oldest mining town in Slovakia and became wealthy thanks to its silver and gold mines. The town lies within the caldera of an ancient volcano and was home to the first Mining and Forestry Academy in Europe, founded in 1762.
That’s why Banská Štiavnica is a unique example of a historic mining town that played a key role in Europe’s economic and technological development. Its well-preserved architecture, mining systems, and cultural landscape reflect its outstanding universal value.

During our stay in the mountain town, we visited the Štôlňa Bartolomej, which also serves as an open-air museum. For about 90 minutes, we were guided through the dark tunnel — a bit low in places for tall people like Moritz. Equipped with protective jackets, helmets, and flashlights, we descended about 50 meters underground.

A walk through the old town and an evening visit to the botanical garden rounded off the day.

Before setting off for Budapest the next morning, we climbed the Calvary Hill. The path leads past 19 chapels and two churches depicting the life and suffering of Jesus Christ, as well as the sorrows of his mother Mary. The stations were built in the late 1740s. From the top, there was once again a magnificent panoramic view of the city and the surrounding landscape.

Next stop: Budapest.

Bratislava

Bratislava is the only city on our trip that is not part of the World Heritage – but of course, there is still plenty to discover in Slovakias Capital! Our brief stop in the lively city was especially memorable for its striking contrast between the historical and the modern. We wandered through the old town, taking in the bustling atmosphere of its streets. While strolling through the city center, two things in particular catch our attention: various statues — including Napoleon and the man in the manhole cover, Čumil, the “Sewer Worker” — touching him is said to bring good luck. In addition, we notice the high concentration of embassies from all sorts of countries located in the city center. In the narrow streets of the city center, there’s a lively bustle (many Austrians take advantage of the short distance for a day trip) and the scent of cinnamon in the air feels somehow familiar, reminiscent of a Christmas market.

In front of the castle, we were rewarded with an impressive view: the historic old town with its cathedral in the foreground, and the modern skyscrapers in the distance, their glass facades reflecting the setting sun. 

Unfortunately, a city highway cuts across, among other places, the square in front of St. Martin’s Cathedral. Similar to Kutná Hora and the Sedlec Church, the constant traffic and noise from the road disturb the otherwise historic and atmospheric setting.

A short but remarkable moment that perfectly captured the city’s blend of past and present.

Next stop: Banská Štiavnica.

Kutná Hora

The medieval, historic town centre of Kutná Hora as a testament of it’s silver mining past, the Church of St Barbara and the Church of Our Lady at Sedlec are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Just a little over an hour’s drive from Prague, this picturesque town is, for us, the first proof that it’s worth exploring places off the beaten path.

We arrived from Prague in the morning and first explored the streets of Kutná Hora on our own. Perched on the slope of a hill, the impressive St. Barbara’s Cathedral stands as a venerable monument of Gothic architecture and part of the UNESCO World Heritage. Unfortunately, the funds ran out before its completion, so it was left only about half finished. Nevertheless, it remains a truly magnificent sight.  Afterwards, we met Kristýna and her colleague Michaela. Their department is responsible for tourism and external relations. They gave us a presentation about their work with UNESCO, highlighting the 30th anniversary celebrations of Kutná Hora’s World Heritage status.

One of the main challenges they face is that most visitors only stay for a single day. They would love to see more tourists spend the night, as Kutná Hora has so much more to offer than just a day trip. Many travelers, ourselves included, tend to underestimate how much time is needed to truly experience the town. There are many more places worth visiting—such as the GASK gallery, the famous Bone Church and charming little coffee shops.

Many thanks to Kristýna and Michaela for their time and warm welcome.

In the afternoon, we departed for Třebíč.

(Note: The Sedlec Church lies lower than the current street level, which is why part of the building is now obscured by the road.)

Třebíč

Třebíč, a charming town in the Vysočina region of the Czech Republic, is a remarkable place where Christian and Jewish cultures have coexisted for centuries. Its Jewish Quarter, the nearby cemetery, and the Romanesque-Gothic Basilica of St. Procopius together form a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for their exceptional testimony to peaceful coexistence between different faiths and cultures in Central Europe.

We followed the Jewish Heritage Trail through the historic quarter and visited the old Jewish cemetery, a peaceful place with a wonderful view over the town. Along the way, we passed several landmarks such as the round bastion Hrádek, Charles Square, and the striking Black House, its façade covered with fascinating historic graffiti. Each corner of the town seemed to tell its own story.

We ended our visit in the surrounding countryside, climbing to the local observation tower for a panoramic view of Třebíč and its picturesque landscape — a serene and fitting conclusion to a day filled with history, culture, and quiet reflection.

Side quests

On our way to Bratislava, we didn’t want to miss the opportunity to visit another UNESCO World Heritage Site — the iconic Villa Tugendhat in Brno. With its clear lines, open spaces, and modernist elegance, the villa stands as a masterpiece of functionalist architecture designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and Lilly Reich. 

Another World Heritage “side quest” awaited us further along our route: the Lednice Palace, a complete contrast to the minimalist Villa Tugendhat. Transformed in the 19th century into a romantic Neo-Gothic residence, the palace is surrounded by an expansive landscaped park. As we walked through the grounds, we discovered charming surprises such as Roman-style aqueduct, an artificial ruin, and even a minaret rising above the trees.

This delightful encounter with nature and architecture offered a refreshing interlude before we immersed ourselves once again in the vibrant city life.

Next stop is Bratislava, Slovakia.

The journey begins

Dear Reader,

Before I take you along on my journey, let me first introduce myself!

Hi, my name is Mareike. I am an avid traveler and heritage enthusiast, passionate about discovering how cities tell their stories through architecture, urban planning, and the connections people have with them. 

 

 

With the support of the OWHC Young Traveling Scholarship, I have the chance to explore four very different World Heritage Cities across four countries:

  • Amsterdam, The Netherlands

  • Bruges, Belgium

  • Le Havre, France

  • Edinburgh, Scotland

Each of these cities reveals a different face of urban heritage and planning, whether that is the iconic network of Amsterdam’s grachten, the medieval town center of Bruges, the post-war architecture of Le Havre, or the historic streets of Edinburgh. Together, they offer a journey through centuries of resilience, innovation, and identity.

As I travel, I hope to share with you these digital postcards. These are not only impressions and photographs but also reflections on how World Heritage Cities are more than preserved monuments. They are living places where heritage and everyday life intertwine, shaping ideas for the future of urban sustainability.

So, if you’re ready to discover the many different layers of World Heritage Cities, I invite you to travel along with me.

Warm greetings,
Mareike

Prague

The city of many towers and ice-cream-colored houses

Prague impresses not least with its excellent Czech beer: The Czech capital is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because its historic center has been remarkably preserved, with a stunning mix of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture. The city reflects more than a thousand years of cultural and architectural development, from Prague Castle and Charles Bridge to the Old Town Square, making it one of Europe’s most beautiful and historically significant urban landscapes.

We weren’t only impressed by this part of Prague — we were just as captivated by the breathtaking views from other districts, such as the National Monument at Vítkov, Vyšehrad, and Riegrovy Sady, where the gaze is always drawn back toward the historic heart of the city.

As we wandered through the streets without any real plan, we were fascinated by the variety of façades: from painted walls, stucco details, glass and metal elements to the countless shades of color — from woodruff green, mint, and pistachio to cappuccino brown, strawberry pink, mango yellow, and apricot orange.

Next stop: Kuntá Hora.