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Luxembourg World Heritage Site

We found ourselves looking out to the city view and reading about the World Heritage Site commemoration.  The fortifications of Luxembourg are regarded as one is the most impressive in Europe. They became a World Heritage Site in 1994.

In the city museum, we had the opportunity to understand the evolution of the fortifications and development in the city. Luxembourg with its topography was destined to be one of the greatest walled cities in Europe. Popular among tourist, the beautiful views will take your breath away.

Later in the day we visited the Notre-Dame cathedral where the royal crypt hidden underneath the church, flanked by two lions in bronze with the Luxembourg coat of arms. In there, it rests the Grand Duchess Charlotte of Luxembourg as well as other members of the Ducal family.

Tomorrow we will go to the national museum of history and art  of Luxembourg and we will say goodbye to our stay here.

 

The Grand Duchess of Luxembourg

On our first day in the beautiful old town of Luxembourg, we met Claudine from the Cultural Office of the city. She gave us a lovely tour of some parts of the town and the National Museum. On the way we saw this gorgeous statue of the Grand Duchess of Luxembourg. She ruled Luxembourg from 1919 till 1964. Together with her husband Prince Felix Bourbon-Parma lived the Nazi occupation. They were both victims art theft.

The statue is located on Place de Clairfontaine and is one of the most famous statues in the city. It was designed by the French sculptor Jean Cardot.

In 2016 three paintings which belonged to the royal couple where found in two private homes in Milan, Italy. An article on the Luxembourg Times reports that most of the stolen pieces were found and returned to Luxembourg after WWII. These three works will not be returned, the police states that the royal family has already been compensated for their losses.

Tomorrow we will visit Notre-Dame cathedral where she is buried.

the one with a good mix

On my way to Luxembourg spontaneously stopped in Brussels for a short stop. The capital of Belgium was a bit of a shock for me.  Never have i ever traveled for so long alone and after staying in Bruges, Lille, Brest, Nantes and La Rochelle, i think i was used to small and/or quite cities.  Even the bigger cities like Budapest and Bordeaux could not compare to this city. The feeling was totally different. I stayed in a youth hostel in the turkish quarter. I visited all the big places i could fit into my small time frame: Grand Place, Royal Palace, Bourse, Art Nouveau Quarter, the Atom, the Cathedral and the Mont des Arts.

If New York is the city that never sleeps, than Brussels for me is the city that never passes up the chance to celebrate something. In the one and an half days i stayed there they had a free comic festival, a free electronic music festival, a beer fest, a stage at the Grand Place with traditional music  and many markets like a flee market and a turkish market. Tom, a local, told me himself  that Brussels can be overwhelming, weird and confusing at first and that is the way i felt half of the time i stayed there. The wild mix of architecture, from decorative, golden guild houses to big, glass office buildings in the next street. But i also learned to love the people in and their mentality. Tom told me a lot of funny but untrue tales and the special ways the people of Brussels dealt with problems. For  example they just covered the river Zenne in the late 19th century with earth instead of cleaning it up. It had become a health hazard because everybody used it as their trash can.

Its really good to have a tram card in Brussels. You can visit all the quarters.  Brussels has 19 mayors because why have one if you can have for one for every part of the city. My favorite places to spend time were the terrace on Place Poelaert Plein by sundown with a view over the hole city, eating congolese food at the Rue de la Longue Vie in Little Africa and the comic festival was pretty amazing too.

 

 

 

 

 

– Manneken Pis –

The legend of Brussels is not something new to anybody. I’m sure even every tourist knows about it after one day. Some might have guessed it already, it’s the famous Manneken Pis. Located in the old part of Brussels near the Grand Place a little bronze boy urinates in to a fountain and everybody loves him. The statue was designed in 1388 naked but nowadays you see him dressed up most of the time and you even can visit the  Musée de la Ville  where all of his clothes are on display. Because the statue is so beloved by the locals many armed forces have tried to steal it in the past. The story goes that after the french grenadiers stationed in Brussels attempted to steal in 1747, the population rebelled against this deed and threatened a bloody revenge. To calm things down, the King of France  offered a outfit made of brocade, embroidered with gold for Manneken Pis. He also allowed him to carry a sword and gave the statue the Cross of St. Louis, the royal french military order.

There are more than one origin story of the Manneken Pis statue.  The most common one, at least of that i know, is about a little peasant boy. The little boy wandered around out side the city gates as he heard enemies forces approaching and he hid. He saw how they buried dynamite underneath the gates to blow up the city gates and walls. He did not quite understand all the enemies whispered to each other but he knew it was not something good. The boy did’t not know what to do. There was no time to get a adult or warn someone so he got to the end of the fuse and urinated on it. And so a little peasant boy put out the dynamite and saved Brussels.

Other stories take about the little Duke Godfrey III of Leuven, a two-year old that was hung in a basket from a tree to bring the troops luck during a battle in Ransbeke. From high up he urinated on the enemies and they lost the battle. Another legend speaks of the son of a noble man, who left a procession to urinate on the wall of a witch’s house. Furiously the witch transformed him into the statue.

Near Manneken Pis you can also find his sister Jeanneke Pis. But she has not so much history to her. A restaurant owner put her up to get more business. There is also statue of a dog urination. So you can see the fame of Manneken Pis really caught on.

 

 

Surprise France!

On our journey to Luxembourg, we discover France was very near. We decided to go to France on our first day in Luxembourg! Metz met us with a lovely cathedral and a 13th century café.

Metz Cathedral
Welcome to Metz!

The one where I explained what OWHC is 🇺🇸

When my boss resent me an email from Global Philadelphia a few months back, I mindlessly opened it, thinking it is just another of the many FIY emails about events in our city I get dozens of, ever since working as a social media intern.

My boss framed the email with “passing this on to all my favorite 18-28-year-olds, mostly because I’m just salty that I’m too old to apply,” catching my attention. 

A pin from the Global Philadelphia office with City Hall in the background

The email offered a scholarship to young travelers, sending them on a trip through North America and/or Europe. Equipped with a budget of €1,000, winners get a chance to discover World Heritage Cities while blogging about their experience, conditioned only by visiting at least three World Heritage Cities, with two of them being members of the OWHC Regional Secretariat.

I was sold at first read. Traveling is what I live for, history is what I love and writing is what I hope to do for a living as a journalism student. Saying that the scholarship was right down my alley is both true and an understatement.

To assure everyone, luck is definitely not one of my assets. I never won anything in my 26 years of living and for that very reason I tried to contain my excitement, yet still submitted an overly eager cover letter, keeping my fingers crossed.

I could not have been more surprised when only a few days after hitting send, I got an email from the OWHC Regional Secretariat for Northwest Europe and North America office in Germany, announcing me as one of the nationwide winners. 

I don’t even know where to start with describing my initial reaction, but it certainly involved dancing, jumping and an unsuccessful attempt to not scream out loud.

I shared the news with my friends and got asked over and over again, what the OWHC actually is and what it has to do with UNESCO. I myself was not sure about all the right answers to those questions and therefore went to meet with Melissa and Zabeth, the ladies from Global Philadelphia Association, a member-governed Pennsylvania nonprofit corporation with the purpose to (put it simply) enhance and promote the global profile of the city. It is also the regional secretariat office of OWHC.

Melissa (left) and Zabeth (middle) welcomed me in their Global Philadelphia office

Melissa explained to me that the Organization of World Heritage Cities is not the same as UNESCO with an infinite patience while I was making sure I understood it well over and over again (and I am very grateful to her for that). 

So I will now try my best to explain the difference: UNESCO — The United National Education, Scientific and Cultural Organization, was established and signed by 16 countries in 1946, shortly after World War II, in order to create an organization that would solemnly focus on culture of peace. 

The Organization of World Heritage Cities was created in recognition that UNESCO sites within urban areas have very unique needs compared to natural sites.

OWHC was formed as a membership organization in 1993 to facilitate a dialogue between cities and to deal with all issues related to the urban management of a World Heritage property.

For a city to become a member of the OWHC, it needs to have a UNESCO site within the city limits and also to prove an “outstanding universal value”—global significance of the city.

The Independence Hall

The United States has 23 UNESCO sites — both natural and cultural. Philadelphia’s one and only site is the Independence Hall, the place where both the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution of the United States were signed.

Philadelphia—one of two world heritage cities in the U.S. along with San Antonio — became part of OWHC in 2015, making the case that there are 67 national landmarks within the city, therefore the city has heritage of an important global value.

OWHC holds the world congress every two years, where all cities are invited, a general assembly meets and cities that would like to become members of the organization can present their case.

Over 300 cities worldwide are part of the Organization of World Heritage Cities as of today and I am beyond excited to visit a couple of them and introduce them to you in the weeks to come!

 

Legend of Bruges

– The Legend of the Golden Eel – 

Long ago, when the Golden Handrei was still called the Sint-Gillisreitje, the water of the canals was so pure that it was filled to the brim with all kinds of fish. You only had to throw your net in to the water and within minutes it would be filled miraculously with perch, bream, pike, carp, roach and eel. There was a lot of fishing going on in the canals. But it was generally known, to better stay away from eel. The eel looks like a snake-like creature, that lazily lay under the mud all day and only comes out at night. The animal must therefore be possessed by the devil the people of Bruges said. There was an unwritten law that prohibited fishing for eels. You better not get the devil out of the water …

Now there was a man, it is said that he came from Lissewege, who did not care much about those laws and traditions. One evening he laid a trap in the Sint-Gillisreitje. The next morning, he picked it up full of winding eels. His eyes sparkled with pleasure because he caught so many delicious fish. His wife would make a nice mess of it. They would not have to fear for a hungry stomach for a few days.

To his surprise he saw that there was also a beautiful golden-yellow eel winding between the others. Curious, he lifted the trap a little higher to hoist the golden eel on dry land. As he was pulling the fish out, a strong, golden hand suddenly arose from the water. It grabbed the fisherman by the ankle and dragged him into the water. No one has ever heard anything from the poor wretch and since then the inhabitants of Lisseweg have been called mockingly “the eel catchers”.

– The End –

Till this day it is rumoured that you can see at night in the moonlight, a shining golden hand, in which a golden eel twists, rising from the water at where the fisherman vanished. It is as if the devil himself wants to warn the fishermen to stop fishing for eels. Luckily this is not possible, since that day all eels disappeared from the “Reien” (the canals running trough the city) and they never returned.

 

Brno – pearl of Czech Republic

In order to break-up what would otherwise have been a 14 hour long bus ride from Budapest to Warsaw, we decided to enjoy a day long intermission in the beautiful Czech city of Brno – the country’s second largest city. Although, we could not find any luggage lockers in the city, which naturally affected the possible scope of our intended urban exploration, we still managed to see most of what the old town area had to offer, including the cabbage market, the Spilberk Castle and The Cathedral of St. Stephen and St. Paul. Considering the aim of this trip is not only to explore new cultures and cities across Europe but also represent Unesco world heritage, we felt it a be a pity if not chancing to visit the unesco protected functionalist Villa Tugendhat, which lies in a villa district east of city centre, behind Park Lužanky. Although we arrived too late to see the interior of the building, the impression we got of the outside sufficed to support what Dr. Anke Zalivako had told us about it being a modern castle.  As we waited for the bus to take us to Warsaw, we realised how much bigger Brno was than we had expected it to be and we regretted not having more time there as we would have loved to explore what lies in the outer districts of the city, such as the Veveri Castle, the Brno reservoir and the Moravian Karst.

Budapest – the triumvirate capital of Hungary

During our relatively short stay in Budapest, we tried to explore as much as possible of either side of the Danube, which splits the city into three principal districts: Buda, Pest and Obuda. Upon arrival, we walked through the northern city park which holds the iconic Széchenyi Fürdő (Thermal Baths) as well as the beautiful Vajdahunyad Castle.

After dropping off our luggage we took a walk along the unesco world heritage listed Andrassy Utca, beneath which lies part of the second oldest metro system in the world.

Here we passed the famous House of Terror, which is dedicated to display parts of Hungarys history, with an emphasis on the fascist and communist regimes during the 20th-century. Later we saw the St. Stephens Basilica and after a traditional meal at the Retro Langos Bufet, circled the Dohány Street Synagogue – which is not only a magnificent structure in itself, but also the second largest synagogue in the world. The following day was dedicated more to exploring the Buda side of the city. As such, we begun with a climb from the Gellért Baths to the Liberty Monument, proudly crowning the top of Gellért Hill. With the citadella in our backs, we aimed ourselves in the direction of the Buda Castle where we enjoyed a great panoramic view of the pest side of the city, before continuing towards the Matthias church and the Fishermans Bastion. As dawn fell upon us, we eventually reached the Margaret island, whereupon we watched the mesmerising choreographies of the Musical fountain. Although we can proudly say our two days in Budapest were packed to the brim with urban exploration, we know there is still so much we didn’t get to see and as such, it is definitely a place we would like to revisit sometime in the future.

the one that does not need advertising

Bruges is a beautiful city. The old town really looks like a postcard. But because of the exceptional big amount of preserved historic buildings, it’s very attractive for tourists. And too many of them are coming to Bruges. Since 2016 the visitor numbers have risen almost a million per year.  In 2018 there were 8.3 million visitors compared to 20000 residents in the Unesco protected city center.  Because of the rising numbers Buges doesn’t even promote itself anymore. From the 8.3 million visitors 6 million are day trippers, meaning that they don’t stay overnight. They spend only half of the money that regular tourists spend on their trip. Were other cities are campaigning for more visitors to bring revenue to the tourist sector, Bruges is drowning in them. But sadly it’s not the right kind of tourists.

One day doesn’t do Bruges justice.  Outside the busy old town i found many gems. I went to the Volkskundemuseum “De zwarte Kat” (The black cat) and lost myself in the oldtimey rooms. I especially liked the pharmacy, the full functioning confectionery  and folkloric games. Speaking of cats Bruges has also a cat cafe called Puss and Books, were you also can adopt cats. Near the cafe you can find a neighborhood guerrilla gardening project. Another wonderful relaxing place is the windmills. After that go along Langestraat fo find second hand and alternative shops.

My real highlight was kind of a suprise find. The Heilige Magdalenakerk church behind the Konigin Astridpark. The YOT hosts exhibitions, plays and concerts there.  But even without a event the transformed church is worth a visit.  I relaxed on the big swing that hangs from the painted high ceiling and  enjoyed the original glass windows. 

In Bruges I met up with Minou Esquenet and Leentje Gunst in Bruges to talk about the World Heritage, tourism and how both affect the city and it’s locals. Because I had the chance to talk to a city official in Bordeaux too, i now could ask question to compare World Heritage Citys from an other standpoint.  On of the my questions was about ecotourism because it was so clear to me that Bruges is swamped by tourists. We also talked about the brand new four-leafed clover plan, which is a concept to chance tourism and it’s effects on Bruges. There are four pillars to ensure the plan works: the balanced, connected, attractive and enterprising city.

By 2024 the city wants tourists that stay longer, have more sustainable and accessible tourism and locals that love to live in the city and don’t feel stressed by the tourists. Even though most of the locals support tourism and for some their income depends on it, one third sees the rising numbers as a threat to livability and one fourth thinks tourists are causing everyday inconvenience.

I also had the chance to visit the new Gruuthusemuseum and talk to Leentje, a city architect, about the architecture of Bruges. Everybody talks about the new pavilion you see in the picture right here. It was built on to the estate as a information and ticket center. Compared to the surrounding buildings the pavilion looks quite abstract and new. The sharp roofs are inspired by the classic Bruges house.  Many locals protest that the pavilion does not fit in and want it removed. It is important to keep in mind that Unesco does not only stand for preserving, we can and should change things , else we have no world heritage to give and future generation will live in a museum. Bruges city center is so well preserved and so it seems that for some locals this little pavilion is to much change.